At the New Orleans Book Festival, one of the most anticipated discussions took place inside Dixon Hall, where legendary chef Emeril Lagasse joined his son, EJ Lagasse, for a fascinating conversation about the evolution of New Orleans cuisine. Moderated by food writer Ian McNulty, the panel, titled “New New Orleans Cuisine: Then & Now”, explored how the city’s rich food traditions continue to evolve while staying true to their roots.
More Than a Menu: A Full Culinary Identity
From the very beginning, the conversation focused on the unique identity of New Orleans cuisine. Unlike cities that are known for one signature dish, New Orleans has developed a full culinary identity, deeply rooted in culture, history, and technique.
Emeril emphasized the importance of mastering the fundamentals of the cuisine, starting with the trinity—the essential blend of onion, celery, and bell pepper that forms the foundation of many Creole and Cajun dishes. “That’s what brings out the goodness,” he said.
The Evolution of “New New Orleans Cuisine”
While the traditional foundation remains vital, the conversation also delved into how the city’s food scene has transformed. Today’s chefs blend global influences with classic techniques, creating a new wave of food often referred to as “New New Orleans cuisine”—a balance of honoring tradition while pushing boundaries.
Carrying the Torch: Tradition vs. Innovation
E.J. Lagasse shared his personal journey of carrying forward his family’s culinary legacy while also carving his own path in the kitchen. One story stood out, illustrating the delicate balance between tradition and creativity. EJ experimented with a banana cream pie recipe at Emeril’s and spent six months serving the updated version.
However, the feedback from loyal customers made it clear that certain traditions were too cherished to alter. EJ eventually returned the dessert to its original form, a reminder of the deep connection between chefs and the communities they serve.
Reinventing the Classics
This balance of nostalgia and innovation is reflected in the new menu at Emeril’s restaurant, where EJ now serves as head chef. One example he shared was the SnoBall, a beloved New Orleans treat, reimagined through inspiration from Hansen’s Sno-Bliz. This adaptation shows how New Orleans classics can be elevated while preserving their essence.
The Lagasses even discussed their friendship with the Hansen family, who refused to share their SnoBall recipe. After striking a deal to purchase the necessary syrups and nectar, they spent time learning the art of SnoBall-making behind the counter at Hansen’s.
A Global Spotlight on New Orleans Dining
The conversation also touched on New Orleans’ growing recognition on the global culinary stage. The arrival of the Michelin Guide in New Orleans has helped shine a spotlight on the city as a major food destination, boosting tourism and elevating local chefs.
However, as Emeril recalled, when he first started, such global recognition didn’t exist. Instead, the city was known for its craftsmanship, consistency, and commitment to community—values that remain central to New Orleans dining today.
A Michelin-Starred Experience
The evolution of New Orleans dining is perhaps best experienced firsthand. A visit to Emeril’s earlier this year revealed a Michelin-starred dining experience that perfectly embodies the “then and now” philosophy. The tasting menu began with a Smoked Salmon Cheesecake topped with Petrossian caviar, offering a luxurious reinterpretation of classic flavors.
Other dishes like Oyster Stew with herbsaint cream and foie gras, and Trout Almondine with green beans and potatoes nodded to New Orleans’ culinary heritage while elevating them with refined techniques.
From Boudin to Wagyu: A Journey Through Flavor
As the meal progressed, the menu seamlessly transitioned between traditional and contemporary flavors. A rich Boudin with collard greens and ham hock paid homage to Southern roots, while a Cobia and Scallop dish reflected global influences with fresh, pristine ingredients.
The evening culminated in indulgent dishes like A5 Miyazaki Wagyu and Duck Risotto, before returning to local nostalgia with a SnoBall and a small portion of Banana Cream Pie for dessert. Specialty wines paired with the courses, from Krug Champagne to Rhône Valley reds and a Madeira to finish, underscored the restaurant’s place at the intersection of New Orleans tradition and global fine dining.
A Living, Breathing Cuisine
Back at Dixon Hall, the Lagasses made it clear that New Orleans cuisine is not static—it is a living, breathing expression of the city. It evolves with each generation, each new chef, and each reinterpretation of its iconic dishes. But at its core, it remains grounded in history, culture, and a commitment to flavor.
The Future of New Orleans Food
As the conversation came to a close, one thing was certain: the future of New Orleans cuisine is in good hands. With chefs like EJ Lagasse building on the foundation laid by those before him, the city’s culinary story will continue to unfold—one dish, one generation, and one creative idea at a time.
